Color back process

Taking hair from light to dark

A color back is the process of taking an artificial blonde back to a darker shade. There are a few essential steps for getting an even, natural looking color that will last.

This article will take you through the process so you can avoid any mishaps.

A blue/grey/green cast is a common outcome with a color back process.

The blonde hair is over-porous and will absorb the blue pigments in the color formula more than the red and yellow. So adding some of those warm pigments back to the hair is important.

Solutions For a Successful Color Back

Three simple steps for doing a color back process the professional way…

1) POROSITY EQUALIZER

Use Zotos Porosity Equalizer before coloring.

It will penetrate into the hair strand, filling up the most porous areas with keratin protein and conditioning agents. The result is a more uniform color because the hair strand absorbs the pigments more evenly.

2) FILLER

Fill the lightened hair with a warm pigment (i.e., red/orange/yellow), before coloring.

When the hair was lightened, it was stripped of its natural underlying pigment. Those pigments are necessary to balance out the color in a darker shade.

So we replace them with artificial pigments before doing the actual color process. This will help neutralize the blue pigments absorbed by the color when it is applied, and even everything out.

WHAT TO USE

Non-permanent (no ammonia) colors or stains are best to use as fillers. So look for an orange toned semi-permanent or demi-permanent color. A permanent color (even a copper orange) contains strong blue pigments which the porous areas of your hair will be most likely to absorb. That’s what will give you muddy results.

FOR COLOR BACK TO LIGHT BROWN

Redken Shades EQ Color Gloss – PAPAYA
When the finished color you’re afer is a lighter shade of brown, you need to be careful about using too dark of a filler. A warm, light copper/strawberry shade like this one has just the right pigments to provide a light fill. This color can be allowed to process for the full recommended time. The warm pigments are subtle, but necessary before you add a neutral shade.

FOR COLOR BACK TO MEDIUM OR DARK BROWN

Redken Shades EQ Color Gloss – BONFIRE
The red-orange tones in this demi-permanent color are just what you need to replace the missing pigments in over-processed hair. Allow the color filler to process for up to 20 minutes. Leave it on for less time (say, 10 minutes) if the finished color result you want to achieve is more neutral or ash. Longer if the finished result you want to achieve is warm (i.e., golden, auburn, red).


Yikes! It’s orange!

The color you end up with after having it filled is not always attractive. In fact, it can be downright garish! Especially if you’re using a filler for dark hair.

Don’t worry, it’s supposed to be vibrant. Remember, we’re trying to mimic the color of your underlying pigment. Rinse the filler well and apply the finishing color immediately.

What about Henna?

Although henna pigment is in the family of colors necessary for a filler, many hennas are made with metallic salts, which could then react with the finishing haircolor, turning your hair black-ish.

Also, henna pigments tend to darken within the hours/days following application. This makes it too unpredictable to use as a filler for a color back process.

3) FINISHING COLOR

Either permanent or semi-permanent will work for the finished color. Permanent is better if you’ve gone a bit overboard with the filler and need a formula with a bit more oomph to neutralize out more of the orange. Otherwise, go with semi(or demi)-permanent.

Semi and demi-permanent colours are deposit only, which is exactly what you need to get your hair darker. There’s no need for the ammonia and peroxide contained in permanent colors when all you want to do is deposit a darker color. So semi or demi-permanent is always my personal choice for that purpose.

Semi/demi-permanent pigment is also more likely to fade, and you may find that to be a good thing. Especially on extremely porous hair which can end up going darker than expected at first.

Help prevent color loss by using a colored shampoo and conditioner like Aveda Clove Conditioner. These special pigmented conditioners deposit a slight color on your hair which deepens your shade and keeps your color looking fresh. Occasional reconstructing hair treatments will also help to retain those color molecules by improving the condition of your hair. Continued use of the porosity equalizer mentioned above will accomplish this.

RELATED ARTICLES

HAIR COLOR GALLERIES

BLONDE
haircolor2

BRUNETTE
haircolor3

RED
galleryredhair

TRENDS
haircolor6

THE LATEST

David Thomson

Vintage fingerwave updo

Coconut oil for healthy hair

Alison Wallis

Retro Hairstyles

STAY CONNECTED!

DON'T MISS